Friday night

Why haven’t I been here before?

The Castle is right in the heart of Portobello Road on the corner of Westbourne Park Road. I’ve walked past this pub literally hundreds of times and never ‘seen’ it.

I guess, on reflection, it’s facing the wrong way with entry facing away from the pedestrian traffic flowing up Portobello Road.

It could have stayed that way had it not been for my father, in town last weekend, whose eye was caught by the Grand Prix on the TV. He ducked inside to check who was winning and we followed him in and stayed for a pint or two. 

I loved it instantly. Homely, local and friendly. We didn’t eat but the food portions looked substantial and appealing. The open kitchen seemed remarkable calm and added to the buzz.

So on our next night out we headed there and this time it was a completely different feel. As if we’d just walked into a bar in Madrid. The Spanish three piece was seated between two tables and kicked out an eclectic mix from salsa and tango to reggae and hip hop with a smattering of Prodigy mashed up.

It was awesome. So intimate. So Spanish. So Notting Hill!

Rumbaba Deluxe plays every Friday night from 8pm at The Castle Hotel. 

Avondale Park redevelopment

Sunday afternoon.

Reclining in an eagle’s nest in the redeveloped Avondale Park.

I’ve been meaning to write about this park since it was redeveloped a month or so ago as it is brilliant. 

As crazy as it sounds to say (so near to Holland Park and Kensington Gardens and full of communal gardens) Notting Hill is really short on small local parks where you can sit on some grass, kick the footy and relax.  You see crowds of people every sunny day coming off Portobello Road searching for a scrap of grass and ending up on someone’s front doorstep: there’s not a lot of public grassy spaces around here.

Avondale Park has always been a park that was a bit unloved and ignored with a couple of seats, mangy grass and an air of uptightness and ageing fragility. Not anymore.

The new razzle dazzle playground is divided into two distinct areas: toddlers, housed in a giant fenced sandpit; and older kids.  I’ve not spent much time in the toddler’s area but the older kids section has an interactive giant climbing spider (yes, spider), a climbing eagle’s nest and lots of whizzing, turning things that make me nauseas. There’s also undergrass netting to prevent erosion which also gives the grass a good firmness for riding.

If your child doesn’t climb, spin or ride a bike this park is not for you.

My boisterous, kamikaze, Labrador-esque child does and this is our new favourite.

Older kids section

Toddlers section

Dinner at The Elgin

Saturday night.

Dinner at The Elgin.

I love this place. It’s so relaxed and has an ‘anything goes’ feel. I’ve never met a snooty staff member here or a customer with one too many beers looking for a fight. I’ve visited on a weekday, on a Sunday afternoon and on Saturday night and it always has that relaxed homely feel as if it would rather be a house party than a pub.

We were there on Saturday night to celebrate my partner’s birthday with friends. 12 of us took over most of the separate dining area.  Guests were late in arriving due to the usual line closures on the tube and while we waited, we had a few drinks in the front bar. The staff were very relaxed about us taking our time and we sat down an hour after our booking time.

On balance, the food was excellent. I shared a massive 18oz t-bone steak with my partner, cooked medium rare and perfectly seasoned, with chips done two ways (fat and thin) and béarnaise sauce. This heart stopper was sensational.

The birthday cake I’d bought in was a shocker and provided the most amusement of the evening.  I think we will all be seeking shelter under the impenetrable icing should the blitzkrieg be repeated.

My only complaint about The Elgin is the far too sensible closing time. Lights are turned up brightly at about 11.30pm on Saturday night and everyone’s out within half an hour.

The Elgin, part of Geronimo Inns,  runs a mailing list and it’s worth signing up as they frequently have special offers, competitions and free drinks.  

This dinner was partly funded by the Elgin as I won one of their online competitions: a photo of the pub in snow during winter.  A big thank you to The Elgin.  The winning photo is below. Note the hardy soul who is out there sweeping the seats and table clear of snow. Look carefully, you’ll note no coat, no gloves, no hat and snow is falling. 

A swim a day

Monday afternoon.

Swimming laps at my local pool.

I love swimming. I love the freedom. The rhythm. The time to think. The lightness and the endorphins that kick in afterwards.

I’ve discovered two great pools nearby: Kensington Leisure Centre or Ken Les is wonderfully close to my apartment and Porchester Centre in Bayswater.

Ken Les is a modern swimming pool in the heart of Notting Dale and, like the immediate area, feels like a faded council initiative of the 70s.  It could do with a facelift but I am grateful for a pool so close to home that I love it for its faults.

It’s a standard 25m but has a variable length (and depth) and can go to 33m. They change the lengths daily and all swimmers need to exit while the change is made.  After school and Saturday mornings are best avoided as priority is given to swimming lessons and lap swimming is often reduced to one lane.

Porchester is housed in a grand art deco pool at the end of Queensway and it’ s always a surprise that there is a pool in there as it also contains a large formal ballroom used for high class functions and events.  It’s an odd 30m length (100 foot) and is deeper and cooler than Ken Les and the water feels cleaner and less chlorinated as a result.  The lanes are wider and kids under 8 are not allowed.

Both offer small pools for kids which are excellent with plenty of kickboards, noodles and other flotation aides with fun. Kids under 8 must have an adult in the pool with them.

Both offer swimming lessons run by Swimming Nature which are excellent, although Ken Les only offers 2 :1 and 1:1 lessons while Porchester also offers up to 8 to 1.

Both are run by Nuffield Health and offer monthly swim passes for £30 which you can use between the two. Ken Les is £3.30 for an adult entry and Porchester is a stiff £5.10. Make sure you bring a £1 coin for the locker at Ken Les and a 20p coin for Porchester.

Day on the green

Sunday afternoon.

Chess in the communal gardens.

The sun is shining. Kids are on the swings. Parents sit in the sun and chat. And I just walked out my back door into this utopia with a cup of coffee in one hand and a chess set in the other. There is an element of ‘Notting Hill’ the movie about it and indeed this is the secret garden they break into.

There are plenty of suburbs with communal gardens but none seem to be as prolific as Notting Hill. This failed 19^th century Hippodrome racecourse, converted to ‘Ladbroke Estates’ by James Weller Ladbroke and architect Thomas Allason, makes a haven of green in a city with very few small local parks.

These gardens are special and the literal fresh air they provide after being in an office all day is invigorating.

My first experience inside a communal garden took my breath away and it was mind blowing to me that people could actually live like this so close to the city. Except now I am and I smile of guilty pleasure each time I walk outside: how can something so magnificent be for so few?

All communal gardens are locked and you will need to either live directly on one or close enough to request a key from the garden committee. Each garden has their own committee and can be quite political with plenty of lobbying and in-fighting. My garden is quite liberal with dogs, bikes and ball games allowed.

Communal gardens open to the public once a year for £9 per garden or a day pass to all for around £20. This year they will open on the weekend June 12/13.

http://www.opensquares.org/

In love with The Ledbury

Tuesday afternoon.

In one of our more indulgent moments, my partner and I have taken the day off work to celebrate a landmark birthday. And it doesn’t get more indulgent than the Ledbury.

The Ledbury is one of my favourite restaurants in London. Recently awarded its second Michelin star, the food looks as beautiful as it tastes and my first experience left me speechless. If I had to recommend one restaurant to a newcomer to London- this is it! And it’s a Notting Hill local.

We started with beetroot meringues with a foie grois filling. I loved the mackerel as starter and the main of pork belly had the lightest, crunchiest crackling. And I would’ve liked to have licked the bowl of the coffee crème brulee. All were a brilliant: surprising combinations of textures and flavours.

The service displays a deft touch that makes it immediately welcoming and sets an extraordinary standard throughout the meal. The waiting staff are as formal or informal as you are.

I had advised on booking that it we were celebrating a birthday and they brought out a complimentary tart with a candle in it.

We went for their three course tasting menu (£27.50) available for lunch.  For something really special, let the chef decide your dishes and the sommelier your wines (around £250 for two.)

It is well worth every penny.

Portobello Road: your local supermarket

Saturday morning

Shopping on Portobello Road.

I love that Portobello Road is my local supermarket. But I’ve now learnt that through the wide array of cheeses, oils, German sausages and discounted crisps it’s a hit and miss situation that requires experience. You have to make a few wrong choices to know what’s oh so right. 

I’ve been stung buying tomatoes (3 for £2) and stale bread.  But I’ve also picked up bargains (12 bananas for £1) and croissants that melt in your mouth.

There are several key buying spots and local hints:

1. There are two discount food stores place selling hugely marked down products. The ham for £2.50 is brilliant. Lots of irregular shapes and off cuts but fresh and juicy off the bone and not reconstituted with water like supermarket ham. I’ve even seen these packs for sale in a reputable butcher at twice the price.  There are other crazy bargains here but always check the ‘Use by’ dates.  The mozzarella balls that expired the day of sale were particularly heinous.
2.  The two bread stalls sell excellent brownies and croissants. The southern one has 3 croissants for £2.50 and these are wonderfully buttery and light. The bread, particularly the French sticks, are disappointing. For the best bread, walk around the corner to the Grocer on Elgin (Elgin Road). Their sourdough bread is divine.
3.  Fruit and vegetables are hit and miss dependent on what’s left and what’s cheap on the wholesale market. I will walk past the stalls twice on a Saturday. One at around 10am to cherry pick the best offers (5 avocados for £1). Then again at around 6pm when traders are packing up and looking to discount. There are bowls of fruit and vegetables at the front of the stands for £1 which can be exceptional.
4. The French cheese shop offers 3 portions for £5 which are always exceptional quality. It’s best to shop there in the morning as once they’re gone they are not replaced and the choice is limited. And if you want to brush up on your French at the same time, go for it!

Oh, one more thing. If you are purchasing on Portobello Road before 10am make sure you have small notes or coins.  The traders will not accept a £20. If you get stuck, pick up the Times from Cafe Nero and break your note there.

The 'notso' Grand Old Duke

Wednesday evening.

A pie and pint at the Duke of Wellington. Or so I’d hoped.

Wednesday afternoon saw the conflux of several brilliant ideas set me up for a great night at the Duke. Firstly, an email arrived from the Duke offering a free mini-pie with your first pint which was so well timed and suggestive that I couldn’t refuse. I mean, why not? Great spring weather, lighter nights, England friendly on Itv (the Duke only has terrestrial TV), board games and Pie Week.

But I’m sad to report that the Duke has slipped.

I was served by two young girls with sullen faces who acted as if my presence had just ruined their night. I asked for an interesting, seasonal beer and they gave me Young’s Bitter. They had no idea about the pies.

The Duke’s board game selection was reduced to about 5 and both games we tried were missing so many pieces we would’ve had more fun playing with the empty boxes.

Oh dear.

We drank our pints, left and watched the game at home.

There are several pubs on Portobello Road that seamlessly transition from catering to tourists on the weekend to locals during the week (Portobello Star for one) but the Duke isn't one. Now it feels as if you’re paying tourist prices for tourist service.

I won’t be hurrying back.

The heart of the city

Wednesday night.

Comedy at the Tabernacle.

What’s the difference between a kangaroo and a kangaroot? A kangaroo is an Australian marsupial. A kangaroot is a Geordie stuck in an elevator.

And so it is with this comedy night. Some jokes fly through the air and cut glass with their acerbic wit, others fall to the ground with a head-scratching ‘what the hell was that about?’

Five acts. Three I’d pay to see again. Two I’d pay not to see again. And a very funny compare.

But that’s not really the point of coming here though. This is as iconically Notting Hill as Portobello Road is but without the tourists. It’s a beautiful Grade II listed building divided into a theatre upstairs, a bar and restaurant downstairs, studios, gallery and a board room. There are nooks and crannies and booths and corners to hide away in. Free WIFI and cans of Red Stripe.

The Tabernacle is multi-purpose- I’m coming back for the street dance classes on Saturday and the mid week yoga- and the heart of the Notting Hill carnival.

The Stones and Pink Floyd rehearsed at the Tabernacle, Lilly Allen debuted here.  If the walls could speak they’d speak of history and racial tension and ultimately of pride and community.

And that is what I got when I came here on Wednesday. A little piece of the fiercely independent and proud Notting Hill I love.

The Tabernacle

Gorillas in the mist

Sunday afternoon.

I walked past the giant gorilla today. Nope, not a euphamism. A straight-up gorilla.

This is what I love about this great neighbourhood. There are a lot of seriously wealthy families who can afford the spare cash and the space in the garden for a giant gorilla and instead of hiding in their backyard they share it with us.

Apparently, they don’t mind kids entering their garden and saying hello to it. Not sure how they’d feel about adults.

The giant gorilla is on Rosmead Road.

Rosmead Road

Chicken or beef?

Saturday afternoon. I’ve finally found a pub playing the football, that allows kids, is not a sports bar and is close to home. The holy grail!!

Welcome to the Earl Percy.
I’ve walked past this pub a million times and to be honest, it’s not the most of inviting of pubs but web research showed that it broadcast the football. So off I went with the family in tow and low expectations.

Kids allowed. Tick.

Premier League on TV. Tick.

Pub not sports bar. Tick.

Close to home. Tick.

And then there were the extra unexpected bits: deep leather couches next to the fire, all day Thai menu (£4.50), bottles of wine on the cheap (£14 for our Peter Lehmann Shiraz), not too crowded, friendly staff.

Ah, the joys of losing an afternoon to the football.

The only gripe I have for the Earl Percy (which sounds like it should be rhyming slang) is the food. Like all the questionable culinary experiences, ie  weddings, economy class aeroplane food etc, when faced with question, “Chicken or beef?” the answer is always chicken. I chose poorly with the beef in oyster sauce, the other chicken curry choices (green and yellow) were excellent.

The Earl Percy

Walking on a dream

Monday night. Celebrity Tour of Notting Hill.

Not that I’m a celebrity stalker but this colourful neighbourhood is well, colourful. I loved the stories of Sir Richard Branson running down Portobello Road in his pants being chased by his lover’s husband and where he launched Virgin Records; of the Tabernacle where Lilly Allen first performed as a 6 year old; of the mews location for the Italian Job; of the church hall where Pink Floyd rocked out; of the studio where Radiohead recorded OK Computer and Lady Gaga, Pokerface. 

I had to cut the already truncated tour short and only managed 45 minutes- the full tour is around 2 and a half hours- but I’m signing up for the full version in spring or summer.

You can keep your celebrity ‘Jason Donovan lives here’ and ‘Elle lives here’, quite frankly they’re entitled to their privacy, but when you start unravelling the fabric of this neighbourhood you get the feeling that anything is possible.

There’s a great sense of anti-establishment, creativity, freedom, hedonism, inclusiveness and endless possibilities. It’s a heady cocktail, which the tour pointed out, several have overdosed on but for me, it’s invigorating.

I walked home with a spring in my step and the feeling that perhaps anything really is possible.

And I understood why Richard Curtis so desperately wanted to share Notting Hill with the world. After all, aren’t I doing exactly the same thing?

Celebrity Tour of Notting Hill

Working from home at the pub

Monday afternoon and I didn’t quite make it into work today. 

Not that I’m not working. I’ve got so much to do and follow-up on from last week that I started at 7am at the kitchen table and when I looked up it was 10am. Oh well. Best to work from home today.

But one can’t spend all day inside the house in pyjamas so where to?

WIFI is a pre requisite and there seems to be an abundance of cafes that offer internet with BT Openzone or similar. But why pay when you can get it for free?

1. Duke of Wellington. Free wireless internet, just ask for the wireless key. A touch on the expensive side for food and non-alcoholic drinks but on the plus side you can be in the heart of Portobello Rd enjoying the buzz while catching up emails. Music is quite loud for taking phonecalls- you’ll definitely need to step outside.
2. Progresso. Across the road from the Duke, Progresso offers really good coffees and lighter and cheaper lunch options.  Pay by the hour wireless internet or for the savvy, log onto the Dukes’.
3. The Elgin. Huge windows overlooking the busy Ladbroke Grove but a sleepier pace due to fewer tourists. Free wireless, just ask for the wireless key. Music is hit and miss and will pick you up, make you groove, or have you crawling the walls with the musac but you won’t need to go outside for phonecalls.

The best thing about working from the pub is the seamless transition into after work drinks.

I think it just turned beer o’clock. Cheers!

Notting Hill Secrets: the beginning

Saturday morning.

I’ve just gone swimming and I’m walking home via Portobello Road stocking up on bread, ham, cheese and tomatoes for a sandwich. I look around me and have a moment of clarity. 

Amongst the chaotic push and shove of the tourists jostling down the road, I am at home.

I know the people that work on this street. I bump into friends here. I have lived here only a year but I feel part of the community.

This blog is, on one hand, completely self indulgent. I want to capture everything I’m experiencing so I can remember it.

On the other hand, by writing about it I’m opening up some of the secrets of the place that you won’t access by walking down Portobello Road with a thousand others on a Saturday morning.

Life’s good here. It’s diverse and exciting and I want to shout it from the rooftops!